This review is from: Revell 1:96 USS Constitution (Toy)
I built this ship 35 years ago. There is very little bad about the kit. It takes time and patience to build and is not for someone who wants to be finished in one day. You should have some experience with building plastic models but you do not need to be an expert. Pros: 1. It is detailed and when completed looks very good. 2. It is large enough to be fairly easy to work on. 3. The plastic, for the most part, has few defects. Cons: 1. It is plastic and not wood, but you can make it look like wood if made right. 2. The sails are plastic with some type of fuzz glued onto them. They make the ship look cheap, to me. 3. You need tools and some experience to make it. For what it is worth, I recommend: 1. Paint everything, it will make the kit look like wood. 2. Take the time to trim off all the flash (extra bits of plastic created when making the parts). Use an emory board, sand paper, small files to clean it up. 3. Very lightly sand the smooth plastic parts, since this will help the glue and paint to stick better. 4. Use as much glue as you need, but not too much. The hull needs more glue. 5. Make sure you have clamps, laundry clips, rubber bands, paper clips and tape to hold the parts together while the glue dries. 6. Get good paint. The lower hull was copper plated. You can get tarnished copper color paint that makes the model really look good. Don’t leave the black hull black. Paint it. It will look better. 7. For rigging, do not glue anything or cut anything until you have all the standing rigging in then tighten or loosen as needed. Usually, super glue works pretty well, put a drop on each knot. 8. Run all the lines through a little bees wax. It will keep the line from looking hairy and unreal. 9. Do not twist off the plastic pieces, cut them off. You will need a small cutter for this. 10.You will need tweezers and paper clips that you can bend to the right shape to help you with the rigging. Have fun and take the time to get the right tools, glue and paint. The result will look better. It will be a lot of fun but the ship will take weeks to complete.
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This review is from: Revell 1:96 USS Constitution (Toy)
This is an all-plastic 1/96 scale model of the USS Constitution, the oldest commissioned warship afloat- still docked in Boston harbor as of this writing. It is almost certainly the best mass-market kit available of the subject, or any American frigate for that matter. This is an older-design kit that’s still produced by Revell, and when completed properly it is huge (over 3′ long) and fantastically detailed.
However, to complete it according to the directions is not a trivial task. Technically this is a skill level 3 kit, but that’s because Revell only has 3 skill levels. Calling this a level 3 is kind of like saying summitting Mt Everest is a ‘difficult hike.’ I would say that if they were to be perfectly honest, it’s more like a 5 or 6 on the scale of 3 compared to most other level 3 Revell kits I’ve seen. You will need the following to complete this in anything approaching recommended display fashion:
1. Paint (deck tan, brown, copper, flat black, flat white, silver, gold, plus red/blue/flesh for figurines if desired). The first five are used in substantial quantity- you’ll probably want to use spray cans or airbrush if possible though it also works hand-brushing (I did it this way). 2. Weathering paints or materials. I used Tamiya Weathering Master, but you can mix your own. 3. Tons of plastic cement, plus cyanoacrylate (a.k.a. CA, ‘instant cement’ or ‘super glue’). 4. A cake of beeswax (doesn’t have to be a lot). 5. Small, fine-tip scissors (e.g. the ones used for cosmetics or tailoring) and large regular scissors. 6. A pin vise (essentially a very fine drill). 7. Beading needles (I used Beadalon collapsible eye needles) 8. Fine-tip tweezers – 2 pairs would be ideal, one straight and one bent. 9. A vise, adjustable wrench, or other strong clamp. 10. A ruler or measuring tape. 11. Side cutters, file, and razor blade for cutting/filing plastic parts. 12. Brushes of various size, including very fine tip for lettering and details. 13. Masking or cellophane tape to hold lines, sails, and spars in place while rigging/cementing. 14. Penlight and small mirror. 15. Modeling putty and applicator.
This kit is difficult both due to some molding issues and due to the complex rigging, which often forces you to work in very tight spaces where you can’t see or maneuver clearly. If you follow the directions as stated, you can expect this build to take at least 6 months if you have prior modeling experience. If you’re not terribly familiar with models or really want to do a good job and up-detail it, expect it to take a year or more.
If you don’t have prior modeling experience, I do not recommend you start with this kit since it’s probably going to be traumatizing. It helps if you have done some sewing or stitching, are a surgeon, or otherwise have experience doing intricate tasks like tying knots with tweezers. If you haven’t done this before, by the time you’re done with this kit you will be good at it… that is an absolute guarantee; or alternative you’ll give up halfway.
The parts are numerous and very highly detailed, including realistic wood grain and copper sheathing textures, eyebolts, blocks, fittings, and boats with oars. It comes with crew figurines (a nice bonus) and for most delicate parts there are numerous spares- this is unusual for kits, and is a very good thing as some parts are very easy to lose or break. The kit comes with textured vacuformed sails, substantial tan and black thread for rigging (6 spools, varying width), anchor rope, and cut-out flags. It has comprehensive and detailed instructions for build-up and rigging which are well done in general. Considering the content included, this is a good priced kit even at $80 which is what it generally goes for now. Note that this is a full-hull only kit with included stand parts, and is not designed to be a waterline model. You could potentially convert it into one, but this would be problematic due to the hull join points being primarily on the keel.
Now… issues. It is an older kit, with older molding technique and in places antiquated design. The main hull is formed in two halves and tends to ‘hog,’ ironically like the real ship after a few hundred-odd years in the water. It can be very difficult to join these two halves, which is why I listed clamps among the items needed. I ended up having to brace it on the inside with cut sprues attached with CA to hold it all together. There may be issues with fit and warping as a result, and there are gaps which need putty to fill (most notably, on the decks which come in 3 pieces each). There is some flash, and you have to be careful cutting and filing as some items that look like flash actually aren’t. Reference directions carefully first.
When assembling, it pays to read ahead, especially with rigging. The directions warn you to do one side first before the…
This review is from: Revell 1:96 USS Constitution (Toy)
I almost built this ship in 1980 but gave up on it. I bought it again this year and am working slowly because that is how you have to do it This is absolutely the most difficult plastic model sailing ship ever made. Be sure to search online for building tips because there is a lot of help out there.
I have used superglue only on this ship – believe me, nothing else is good enough. I think I will throw out the plastic sails and make my own from linen.
I am 52 years old – I use glasses and magnifiers for everything I do with this model – painting, gluing, tying the rigging.
If you love a real challenge, take this one on!
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Worth the effort,
Pros:
1. It is detailed and when completed looks very good.
2. It is large enough to be fairly easy to work on.
3. The plastic, for the most part, has few defects.
Cons:
1. It is plastic and not wood, but you can make it look like wood if made right.
2. The sails are plastic with some type of fuzz glued onto them. They make the ship look cheap, to me.
3. You need tools and some experience to make it.
For what it is worth, I recommend:
1. Paint everything, it will make the kit look like wood.
2. Take the time to trim off all the flash (extra bits of plastic created when making the parts). Use an emory board, sand paper, small files to clean it up.
3. Very lightly sand the smooth plastic parts, since this will help the glue and paint to stick better.
4. Use as much glue as you need, but not too much. The hull needs more glue.
5. Make sure you have clamps, laundry clips, rubber bands, paper clips and tape to hold the parts together while the glue dries.
6. Get good paint. The lower hull was copper plated. You can get tarnished copper color paint that makes the model really look good. Don’t leave the black hull black. Paint it. It will look better.
7. For rigging, do not glue anything or cut anything until you have all the standing rigging in then tighten or loosen as needed. Usually, super glue works pretty well, put a drop on each knot.
8. Run all the lines through a little bees wax. It will keep the line from looking hairy and unreal.
9. Do not twist off the plastic pieces, cut them off. You will need a small cutter for this.
10.You will need tweezers and paper clips that you can bend to the right shape to help you with the rigging.
Have fun and take the time to get the right tools, glue and paint. The result will look better. It will be a lot of fun but the ship will take weeks to complete.
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|Great kit, if you have the time, tools, and patience to finish it,
This is an all-plastic 1/96 scale model of the USS Constitution, the oldest commissioned warship afloat- still docked in Boston harbor as of this writing. It is almost certainly the best mass-market kit available of the subject, or any American frigate for that matter. This is an older-design kit that’s still produced by Revell, and when completed properly it is huge (over 3′ long) and fantastically detailed.
However, to complete it according to the directions is not a trivial task. Technically this is a skill level 3 kit, but that’s because Revell only has 3 skill levels. Calling this a level 3 is kind of like saying summitting Mt Everest is a ‘difficult hike.’ I would say that if they were to be perfectly honest, it’s more like a 5 or 6 on the scale of 3 compared to most other level 3 Revell kits I’ve seen. You will need the following to complete this in anything approaching recommended display fashion:
1. Paint (deck tan, brown, copper, flat black, flat white, silver, gold, plus red/blue/flesh for figurines if desired). The first five are used in substantial quantity- you’ll probably want to use spray cans or airbrush if possible though it also works hand-brushing (I did it this way).
2. Weathering paints or materials. I used Tamiya Weathering Master, but you can mix your own.
3. Tons of plastic cement, plus cyanoacrylate (a.k.a. CA, ‘instant cement’ or ‘super glue’).
4. A cake of beeswax (doesn’t have to be a lot).
5. Small, fine-tip scissors (e.g. the ones used for cosmetics or tailoring) and large regular scissors.
6. A pin vise (essentially a very fine drill).
7. Beading needles (I used Beadalon collapsible eye needles)
8. Fine-tip tweezers – 2 pairs would be ideal, one straight and one bent.
9. A vise, adjustable wrench, or other strong clamp.
10. A ruler or measuring tape.
11. Side cutters, file, and razor blade for cutting/filing plastic parts.
12. Brushes of various size, including very fine tip for lettering and details.
13. Masking or cellophane tape to hold lines, sails, and spars in place while rigging/cementing.
14. Penlight and small mirror.
15. Modeling putty and applicator.
This kit is difficult both due to some molding issues and due to the complex rigging, which often forces you to work in very tight spaces where you can’t see or maneuver clearly. If you follow the directions as stated, you can expect this build to take at least 6 months if you have prior modeling experience. If you’re not terribly familiar with models or really want to do a good job and up-detail it, expect it to take a year or more.
If you don’t have prior modeling experience, I do not recommend you start with this kit since it’s probably going to be traumatizing. It helps if you have done some sewing or stitching, are a surgeon, or otherwise have experience doing intricate tasks like tying knots with tweezers. If you haven’t done this before, by the time you’re done with this kit you will be good at it… that is an absolute guarantee; or alternative you’ll give up halfway.
The parts are numerous and very highly detailed, including realistic wood grain and copper sheathing textures, eyebolts, blocks, fittings, and boats with oars. It comes with crew figurines (a nice bonus) and for most delicate parts there are numerous spares- this is unusual for kits, and is a very good thing as some parts are very easy to lose or break. The kit comes with textured vacuformed sails, substantial tan and black thread for rigging (6 spools, varying width), anchor rope, and cut-out flags. It has comprehensive and detailed instructions for build-up and rigging which are well done in general. Considering the content included, this is a good priced kit even at $80 which is what it generally goes for now. Note that this is a full-hull only kit with included stand parts, and is not designed to be a waterline model. You could potentially convert it into one, but this would be problematic due to the hull join points being primarily on the keel.
Now… issues. It is an older kit, with older molding technique and in places antiquated design. The main hull is formed in two halves and tends to ‘hog,’ ironically like the real ship after a few hundred-odd years in the water. It can be very difficult to join these two halves, which is why I listed clamps among the items needed. I ended up having to brace it on the inside with cut sprues attached with CA to hold it all together. There may be issues with fit and warping as a result, and there are gaps which need putty to fill (most notably, on the decks which come in 3 pieces each). There is some flash, and you have to be careful cutting and filing as some items that look like flash actually aren’t. Reference directions carefully first.
When assembling, it pays to read ahead, especially with rigging. The directions warn you to do one side first before the…
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|USS Constitution,
I have used superglue only on this ship – believe me, nothing else is good enough. I think I will throw out the plastic sails and make my own from linen.
I am 52 years old – I use glasses and magnifiers for everything I do with this model – painting, gluing, tying the rigging.
If you love a real challenge, take this one on!
0
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|