4/5 stars. Not the best, but damn good for the money! I’d buy this one over anything else in the sub $150 price range.
I got mine with 55 lbs limbs. You can get them from 25lbs all the way to 60 lbs. You don’t have to order a whole bow, just the limbs. You can also upgrade limbs to better quality/different brands. However, if you’re not a pro, I’d stick with the samick brand limbs. I will say, for those who are not at least moderately experienced with archery, a 55 lbs recurve is a lot to handle for a first bow. There is not any let off like with a compound and you’ll have to be able to hold all of it while you line up your shot (as a rule of thumb +5 lbs per inch if you draw past 28″ to your anchor point). You can “defeat this” with “instinctive” archery styles, but you’ll still want to start with a lower poundage bow to learn how to do this. There again, you can buy more limbs later for $75-$100 for each additional pair.
I added a felt arrow rest, some cat whisker style string silencers, put some loop side tape (the fuzzy part of velcro) where the string slaps the limbs (where it hooks onto the limbs) and a large rubber washer between the riser and limb (one at each end). This makes the bow VERY QUIET. Before I did this I got a lot of noise (vibration) when shooting. I think some of this may be overkill, but to me it’s never a bad thing to give up a few feet per second if I can be quiet when I shoot.
I refletched a few carbon shafts with feathers and I get less shot deflection. You’ll also want to make sure that you use properly spined shafts, or you’ll get very poor arrow flight (I had some going sideways at the target because I was using too spiff of a spine… I am using 400’s at 31″ long… consult the manufacturers recommendation chart to determine what you want to use).
I have been shooting by “instinct”, but have been toying with the idea of adding sights (just the front sight, no peep on the string). This bow is pre-drilled with inserts for adding all of the typical goodies that you’d have on a compound bow… sights, arrow rest, and a stabilizer. I shoot, and the bow is fine as is. I want to make sure I make that clear… YOU DO NOT NEED THESE THINGS (!!!) to shoot this bow well between 10 and 30 yards or more if you’re more competent than I am. However, you CAN add them if you want to.
While we’re on it… I guess you could use a mechanical release with this bow… Add a D loop, etc… I just have a string nock and pull it with my fingers (I use a shooting glove).
This bow is great for anyone looking for an entry level kit for target practice or hunting. Just keep in mind it is a 62″ long affair (it’s 5 feet long when unstrung, and about 4 feet long when strung) so keep out of tight, brushy areas when stalking unless you want to make A LOT of noise.
Happy Hunting!!!
Word of warning… 55 lbs on a recurve is “more” than it is on a compound because there is NO let-off… once you figure it out it won’t matter much… just be aware you may want to start with a 40-45 lbs set of limbs and later get some 55-60s… maybe go-to a shop and try one before you buy..
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Firstly, this is THE starter bow! It is a top notch recurve at a great price. I am “relatively” new to archery, and all the old school guys at the range gave me super props for my initial purchase. So BUY THIS BOW!!! You can’t beat it for the price. And here is some advice for the new archers who are trying to figure all this out!!!
The first thing is that there are 400 different opinions on everything in archery, and the “best” one really is what you have narrowed down for yourself!
1) Only buy the bow at first (online): then visit an archery store, archery range, archery instructor (not a sporting goods chain). They will be HAPPY to assist you in what else you will need; i.e. glove/tab, what arrows, bow stringer, rest, etc. Don’t purchase these with your Sage initially (online), as you will probably buy the wrong stuff or stuff you don’t need!
2) Buy lower pound limbs; 25# to 35#. In traditional archery form is EVERYTHING. It is much easier to perfect your form with lighter limbs. You can always buy heavier limbs later… they aren’t that expensive…. that’s one of the reasons to buy a take-down bow!
3) Figure out which eye is your dominant one. Not always, but most of the time, the “handed” bow you need doesn’t correspond to your dominant hand, but your dominant EYE. Luckily, most people’s dominant eye is also their dominant hand, but not always. I learned this the hard way! I am right-handed, but left-eyed. I naturally bought a right-handed bow, but later learned I needed a left-handed one…. It was awkward at first using my “off-hand”, but my aim using my “strong-eye” was MUCH better.
4) Visit the website “hunters friend”. At the bottom of it’s homepage, in the help section, is a link to Carbon Arrow University. This is an extremely useful guide to understanding archery. It is easy to read and understand and helped me tremendously. Also, 3 Rivers Archery and Lancaster Archery are companies with good reputations when you are looking to expand your kit. (I am not affiliated with ANY of these companies… just helpful things I have found)
I hope this helps you, and BUY THE SAGE!!!!! It really is a top shelf starter bow, I love mine!!!!
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Of the two takedown bows I own (The other is a Martin jaguar.) this is by far the better bow. If you do decide to purchase it, don’t forget to buy an arrow rest and an arm guard.
Pros: – can takedown and setup with bare hands – The limbs have never twisted on me. – has a graceful and well crafted appearance
Cons: – I’ve used my Sage takedown spring, summer and fall for two years, and I’ve yet to notice any shortcomings.
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great bow,
I got mine with 55 lbs limbs. You can get them from 25lbs all the way to 60 lbs. You don’t have to order a whole bow, just the limbs. You can also upgrade limbs to better quality/different brands. However, if you’re not a pro, I’d stick with the samick brand limbs. I will say, for those who are not at least moderately experienced with archery, a 55 lbs recurve is a lot to handle for a first bow. There is not any let off like with a compound and you’ll have to be able to hold all of it while you line up your shot (as a rule of thumb +5 lbs per inch if you draw past 28″ to your anchor point). You can “defeat this” with “instinctive” archery styles, but you’ll still want to start with a lower poundage bow to learn how to do this. There again, you can buy more limbs later for $75-$100 for each additional pair.
I added a felt arrow rest, some cat whisker style string silencers, put some loop side tape (the fuzzy part of velcro) where the string slaps the limbs (where it hooks onto the limbs) and a large rubber washer between the riser and limb (one at each end). This makes the bow VERY QUIET. Before I did this I got a lot of noise (vibration) when shooting. I think some of this may be overkill, but to me it’s never a bad thing to give up a few feet per second if I can be quiet when I shoot.
I refletched a few carbon shafts with feathers and I get less shot deflection. You’ll also want to make sure that you use properly spined shafts, or you’ll get very poor arrow flight (I had some going sideways at the target because I was using too spiff of a spine… I am using 400’s at 31″ long… consult the manufacturers recommendation chart to determine what you want to use).
I have been shooting by “instinct”, but have been toying with the idea of adding sights (just the front sight, no peep on the string). This bow is pre-drilled with inserts for adding all of the typical goodies that you’d have on a compound bow… sights, arrow rest, and a stabilizer. I shoot, and the bow is fine as is. I want to make sure I make that clear… YOU DO NOT NEED THESE THINGS (!!!) to shoot this bow well between 10 and 30 yards or more if you’re more competent than I am. However, you CAN add them if you want to.
While we’re on it… I guess you could use a mechanical release with this bow… Add a D loop, etc… I just have a string nock and pull it with my fingers (I use a shooting glove).
This bow is great for anyone looking for an entry level kit for target practice or hunting. Just keep in mind it is a 62″ long affair (it’s 5 feet long when unstrung, and about 4 feet long when strung) so keep out of tight, brushy areas when stalking unless you want to make A LOT of noise.
Happy Hunting!!!
Word of warning… 55 lbs on a recurve is “more” than it is on a compound because there is NO let-off… once you figure it out it won’t matter much… just be aware you may want to start with a 40-45 lbs set of limbs and later get some 55-60s… maybe go-to a shop and try one before you buy..
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|Do a little research first!,
The first thing is that there are 400 different opinions on everything in archery, and the “best” one really is what you have narrowed down for yourself!
1) Only buy the bow at first (online): then visit an archery store, archery range, archery instructor (not a sporting goods chain). They will be HAPPY to assist you in what else you will need; i.e. glove/tab, what arrows, bow stringer, rest, etc. Don’t purchase these with your Sage initially (online), as you will probably buy the wrong stuff or stuff you don’t need!
2) Buy lower pound limbs; 25# to 35#. In traditional archery form is EVERYTHING. It is much easier to perfect your form with lighter limbs. You can always buy heavier limbs later… they aren’t that expensive…. that’s one of the reasons to buy a take-down bow!
3) Figure out which eye is your dominant one. Not always, but most of the time, the “handed” bow you need doesn’t correspond to your dominant hand, but your dominant EYE. Luckily, most people’s dominant eye is also their dominant hand, but not always. I learned this the hard way! I am right-handed, but left-eyed. I naturally bought a right-handed bow, but later learned I needed a left-handed one…. It was awkward at first using my “off-hand”, but my aim using my “strong-eye” was MUCH better.
4) Visit the website “hunters friend”. At the bottom of it’s homepage, in the help section, is a link to Carbon Arrow University. This is an extremely useful guide to understanding archery. It is easy to read and understand and helped me tremendously. Also, 3 Rivers Archery and Lancaster Archery are companies with good reputations when you are looking to expand your kit. (I am not affiliated with ANY of these companies… just helpful things I have found)
I hope this helps you, and BUY THE SAGE!!!!! It really is a top shelf starter bow, I love mine!!!!
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|quality takedown,
Pros:
– can takedown and setup with bare hands
– The limbs have never twisted on me.
– has a graceful and well crafted appearance
Cons:
– I’ve used my Sage takedown spring, summer and fall for two years, and I’ve yet to notice any shortcomings.
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|